A 70km2 tract of tangled woodland situated a short way south of the Kafu River, Ziwa Rhino Sanctuary is the only place in Uganda where you rhinos can be seen in a more – or – less wild state, thanks to an ongoing introduction programme overseen by the NGO Rhino Fund Uganda. The sanctuary’s main attraction is a white rhino population of 26 (and growing), which can be tracked on foot by day or overnight visitors in the company of an experienced ranger guide. It is also home to around 20other large animal species, most conspicuously warthogs, vervet monkey, bush bucks and waterbucks, while an impressive checklist of 300-plus birds include the shoebill stock which can be tracked by the canoe or on foot in Lugogo swamp.

One of the most exciting wildlife activities on offer anywhere in Uganda, tracking the white rhinos of Ziwa takes place on foot, though you might need to drive a short away from the headquarters first, depending on the location of the nearest individuals. Because they are solitary animals, the rhinos are usually seen singly, though youngsters tend to stick closer to their mother until they are almost fully grown. The rhinos are much habituated, since they are protected by armed rangers 24/7, so it os often possible to approach them with in a distance of 30m. White rhinos are not generally aggressive towards people (certainly by not comparison to their notoriously grouchy black counterparts), but like any other wild animal , they can be unpredictable, so it is vital you stick close to the ranger, listen to his instructions and avoid sudden movements.